Shaveology

Traditional Wet Shaving & More!

Becoming a Barber: Week 3

Hey Shavers,

During my third week at barber school, we began women’s shear (scissor) cutting techniques.  We discussed the difference between cutting dry or wet hair and straight vs curly hair. We also learned about hair cutting elevation: the angle at which a section of hair is held from the head for cutting, relative to its roots.

  • 0 degree elevation is parallel to the floor, or the hair’s natural fall position (straight down); 0 elevation cutting produces weight, bulk, and maximum length at the perimeter of a hairstyle, and makes the hair appear to be all one length.
  • 45 degree elevation, from where the hair grows, produces layered ends along the perimeter of a hairstyle; this would be used for wedge & bob style haircuts or tapering the back of the neck.
  • 90 degree elevationcreates uniform layered hair; it is the most common angle for men’s haircutting. Each section of hair is cut at the same length, from where it grows, all over the head or hair section (for men it is usually just the top of the head).
  • 180 degree elevation produces increased, stacked layers; the hair on top of the head is shortest and gradually gets longer as it reaches natural fall. This is the style of haircut my wife gets.

I had to perform four haircuts, demonstrating each elevation.  I did well with 0 and 180 degree elevation, but struggled with 45 and 90 degree elevation.  With time I’ll get better with my hand coordination and manipulating hair while holding shears and a comb. I don’t plan on cutting women’s hair regularly, but it’s good to learn as a barber should be able to cut any customers hair.

We haven’t covered the face shaving unit yet, but we’re bound to within the next 3 weeks. The state of Florida prohibits the use of shaving brushes on clients, unless it is the client’s personal brush. I asked Mr. Alex if a brush could be used to lather a traditional cream or soap, as long as it was never actually used for application. He said he believed that was permitted; I’ll have to research it further. I definitely want to specialize in traditional face shaving, after I’m licensed and working (in 2015). There is a Roosters Mens Grooming Center in Tampa and a Men’s Dept. Barbershop recently opened in Clearwater that I’d like to approach about employment.

I began discussing traditional wet shaving with Tim, a barber student who is several months ahead of me. He mentioned this week that he had ordered a sample of The Art of Shaving cream and I told him that it was a nice cream, but that there were better and less expensive available.  Tim has a beard and doesn’t shave, but I began to explain some of the options available to him. So far, of the shaving I’ve seen the advanced students do, only cosmetology store shaving gels or Barbasol foam has been used. I gave Tim some samples of TOBS Jermyn Street Shaving Cream, Jack Black Triple Cushion Supreme Cream, Eshu Skin Assist Shave Cream, Real Shaving Co. Moisturising Shave Cream, and Lucky Tiger Vanishing Cream after shave. I’ll probably show him the wonders of lathering with a synthetic brush this week; he only has a craptastic Marvy boar brush, from Sally Beauty Supply.

Week 4 we’ll continue learning about shear cutting and begin looking at men’s haircuts.

– – – – – – – – – –

My wife’s birthday is this week and along with ordering her presents on Amazon, I threw in a bottle of eBarbershop Pre-Shave Gel; it only has 1 review, and it’s poor, but I decided to try it for myself. I already have their eBarbershop Pre-Shave Cream and it is a good value for the price/quantity (my fav pre-shave cream is Proraso Sensitive). In advance of learning to face shave, I’m considering getting a Daune Shavette Razor; apparently they are still commonly used by Italian barbers (video) and the design is very similar to a DE safety razor, even though they don’t seem that common among American wet shavers.

 

Until next time, Shave Well!

Handsome Rob (barber in training)
“I’m handsome, and you can be handsome too!”

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2 comments on “Becoming a Barber: Week 3

  1. Wesley
    June 21, 2014

    These blogposts are quite interesting to read I have to say 🙂

  2. 德州撲克
    October 13, 2014

    Amazing article, thanks a lot !!

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