Shaveology

Traditional Wet Shaving & More!

Shaving Primer 101

A Brief History & Explanation of Wet Shaving

Wet shaving is the traditional technique of shaving, using plenty of water, a single blade razor, and a brush to lather and apply a cream or soap.  Wet shaving uses multiple passes to reduce and finally eliminate whiskers, often without any irritation.  Wet shaving can take longer than shaving with modern multi-blade cartridge razors and canned foam, but the shaves are better, it is healthier for your skin, and it is often more economical too; many wet shavers claim that the routine of wet shaving is relaxing!  It is also very masculine.

Wet shaving originated centuries ago, across many civilizations (Egypt, Greece, Italy…). Skilled barbers offered straight razor shaves, when common grooming services like shaving and bathing were not easily accessible (due to a lack of indoor plumbing and other comfortable standard of living resources we enjoy today).

Straight Razors, also called Cutthroat Razors, were the principle instrument for shaving up to the early 1900’s, when King Gillette (founder of Gillette shaving products) introduced the modern Safety Razor, which used a disposable Double Edge blade.  Various single and double edge safety razors designs had been around since the late 1800’s, but Gillette was the first to successfully patent a disposable DE (carbon steel) blade and safety razor system. Gillette safety razors were issued to soldiers during WW1, which would be a key factor in their razors’ successful introduction to the public, post war. [Wikipedia]

Video by Above The Tie Grooming

Gillette had unparalleled financial success with their safety razors until the 1960’s, when competitors began implementing better blade technology (stainless steel).  Also around this time, plastic, disposable single blade cartridge razors were introduced.  Having lost the market advantage on DE blade sales, Gillette entered the disposable cartridge razor market, with a patented twin bladed cartridge, and regained financial success.

Multi-blade cartridge razors claim to shave closer using a technique called Hysteresis; as the first blade cuts the hair, it further pulls the hair from the follicle, allowing the additional blades to cut even shorter.  (Wet shavers refer to this as a tug and cut method.)  Today, manufacturers continue to vie for mass market shaving dominance, introducing increased multi-blade razors, pivoting razor heads, various lubricating technologies, and battery operated light and vibration features—all in the guise of providing “a better shave.”  By this reasoning: If one blade is good, and two blades are better, then every additional blade added should continue to improve performance, right?  No.

The law of diminishing returns (also law of diminishing marginal returns or law of increasing relative cost) states that in all productive processes, adding more of one factor of production, while holding all others constant (“ceteris paribus“), will at some point yield lower per-unit returns.  …or even reduce the yield.  [Wikipedia]

Where does the law of diminishing return take affect for multi-blade cartridge razors?  My guess is between 2 and 3 blades.  5 or 6 blades is excessive; if one blade (used with poor technique or inferior lather) is capable of causing razor burn, how much will each additional blade compound the irritation?!  Traditional wet shavers believe in keeping it simple.

Shaveology chooses to define Wet Shaving as:

The technique of shaving with hot water, using a single blade razor, and a brush to lather a cream or soap. There are 3 phases to the routine.

Shaveology’s philosophy of Wet Shaving is:

The pursuit of the best shave, every shave, affordably priced.

Using a DE safety razor is different than a cartridge razor

For years, modern cartridge shaving has stressed its so-called convenience; you can do it in very little time, with very little preparation, and you don’t even need to be fully awake!

The aerosols used in mass-produced Canned shave gels and foams dry out your skin, and the gels themselves are generally made out of petroleum based ingredients (which is a concern for some shavers). A good shaving experience begins with good beard preparation.  Only recently have mass-market shaving manufacturers begun to introduce pre-shave products (in response to the resurgence of traditional wet shaving trends).  I don’t believe this introduction of mass-market pre-shaving products are motivated by the desire for shavers to get a better shave, rather it is an attempt to sell additional products.  This is not to say that pre-shave preparation cannot benefit cartridge shaving, but that it has not been stressed (in general cartridge shaving philosophy).

The human body is over 60% water; dry whiskers are coarse, but once saturated with water, they become soft and easy to cut (like spaghetti noodles).  Wet shaving keeps your skin hydrated with water and you lather a cream or soap with water; per shave, more water is incorporated with wet shaving than modern cartridge shaving practices. Of course, modern cartridge shaving uses water during its process, but traditional wet shaving uses more water.  Think of traditional wet shaving as wetter shaving.

Safety razor’s don’t require pressure to cut stubble; the weight of the razor head with properly hydrated whiskers effortlessly work together.  You will cut yourself if you apply heavy pressure. With cartridge razors, pressure is necessary because of the relatively fixed razor angles (pivot heads attempt to remedy this); you can rotate or adjust the angle of your safety razor to fit the contour of your face (and get gentler or more aggressive shaves).  Also, safety razors are generally constructed from metal and naturally have more heft and weight than light, plastic cartridge razors.

Traditional wet shaving products (soaps, creams, oils, and after shaves) generally use better, healthier, and often more natural ingredients than mass-market products.  Mass market shaving products generally use cheaper ingredients because of the scale of production; many traditional shaving products are produced in small batches by artisan or family owned and run factories, and will use better ingredients because of the smaller scale of production.

Wet Shaving is ultimately a philosophy and technique for approaching how to shave.  Shaveology offers these loose categories to identify individual shaver’s preferences:

  • Classic Wet Shaver (Straight razor, Brush, Cream/Soap)
  • Traditional Wet Shaver (Safety razor, Brush, Cream/Soap)
  • Method Wet Shaver (The Roberts Method of Wet Shaving) [not explained here]
  • Modern Wet Shaver (Cartridge razor, Brush, Cream/Soap)

There are 3 phases to the wet shaving routine:

  • Pre-Shave
  • The Shave
  • Post Shave

The Pre-Shave routine softens the whiskers and cleanses and prepares the skin before shaving.  If you shave in the morning, allow your skin 30 minutes to “wake up” first.  Whiskers take about 3 minutes to hydrate and absorb moisture.  Probably the best form or preparation is a hot shower before shaving.  If you don’t have time for a shower, spend about 2 minutes wetting your face with hot water, then apply your shave lather and allow it to sit for 1 minute before proceeding to shave.  A hot, steamed towel is also a very relaxing way to prepare your face before shaving.  Some men like to apply a pre-shave oil or cream. (optional)

The first shaving pass should always be With the Grain (WTG).  This means shaving in the direction of whisker growth.  You can determine your whisker growth pattern by running your fingers across your face.  The first pass takes the longest because this is where the majority of beard is cut (5-6 min).  You will not be completely “smooth” after the first pass, additional passes (re-lathering) will be necessary.

Re-lather.  The second shaving pass will be Across the Grain (XTG). This means shaving across the direction of whisker growth (from jaw to chin). The second pass takes less time because you are only further reducing the leftover stubble from the first pass (2-3 min).  You should be “smooth” enough to quit after the second pass.  A third pass is optional…

Re-lather between passes.  The third and final shaving pass will be Against the Grain (ATG). This means shaving against the direction of whisker growth.  The last pass takes less time because you are only further reducing the leftover stubble from the previous passes (2-3 min).  You should be careful when attempting to shave ATG because it is quite aggressive, but the results can be baby’s skin smooth!  If you have sensitive skin or are prone to ingrown hairs I would not recommend ATG.

The Post Shave routine is important because you Rinse, Condition, and Heal your freshly shaved skin.  Thoroughly rinse your face with warm water, then cool water after shaving.  Pat your face dry, don’t scrub it.  I recommend patting with the direction of your grain.  You can apply a topical antiseptic like witch hazel or use an alum block if you are prone to acne or have any minor abrasions.  A styptic pencil can be used for the occasional nick.  Finish with aloe or a non-alcoholic aftershave balm.  (1 min)

Thoroughly rinse your razor and brush after each use, then store them someplace to air dry, or you can pat them dry on a clean towel.  I generally get 3-5 comfortable shaves from a DE blade; at .07 to .25 cents apiece you could use a fresh one every shave and still spend less than the cartridge refills!

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7 comments on “Shaving Primer 101

  1. Azedine
    March 4, 2014

    Hey mate,

    You have a kick Ass blog here. Very informative and straight to the point. Unfortunately my safety razor is inside the closet since the electric razor took over my face lol.
    Cheers

    P.s Hopefully you found a new job.

  2. John
    March 7, 2014

    Great blog! As a result of watching your excellent videos on youtube and reading your blog I gave wet shaving a try. Its is a drastic change to that of shaving with a cartridge. Im loving the close shave and lack of razor burn. (I also love saving money.) As an aside, I am encouraged by your willingness to openly share your faith. Great job! Keep up the good work!

  3. Ferris Égoïste
    June 1, 2014

    wonderful blog you have here. I’ve just discovered it along with your youtube channel! keep up the excellent work. Wet shaving has seen an increase in popularity these days, due to resurgence on Men’s skincare and people trying to save money in this down economy. I’m all almost saving money. When I think about all the money wasted on plastic disposable razors! OMG. Replacement cartridges for those Gilette razor are expensive as hell! Comparedvto buying a safety razor and a box of DE blades. Ive never even though about shaving with a safety razor until I saw a couple guys on youtube breaking it down by cost and the money savings you can have by using one. My eyes are now fully open to the possibilities and benefits of using a safety razor or straight edge blade. i will be tuning in from now on to see what you post! Good luck in your barber school!

  4. Chance Newingham
    January 4, 2015

    Thank you! This is very helpful!

    Is there a place on here where random questions from a newbie can be posted?

    Later!

  5. Matt Broderick
    January 19, 2015

    Great video and well written post. I really like how you broke down the different types of shavers. I haven’t seen that before but see how it can be useful when describing you shaving routine to other shavers.

  6. The Art of Shaving
    May 21, 2015

    Great post! Many people forget the pre-shave oil but it can really make for a great shaving experience!

  7. Jes L
    November 19, 2015

    I’ve been shaving for 40 years using a cartridge blade razor in the shower. I’ve been making a mess out of my face worse than you can imagine! I’ve had bad acne appear the day after shaving which had been going-on for 40 years! I recently started shaving the traditional way using the Japanese-made Feather razor with Hi Stainless Feather two-sided blades. I shave in the shower. The only preparation I perform so far is I wash my face before shaving. Sometimes I use a little hair conditioner if I happen to apply a bit too much on my hair? But that’s it. I’ve used the Feather razor twice now and surprisingly managed not to nick myself even once. Right now I’m using my cartridge-blade razor (has three blades) to finish-up. I use it very gently just like it were the Feather razor. So far I’m getting no acne on my face! I can’t believe it! I’m also getting a good shave and ZERO razor burns. I don’t use a shaving bowl or need to re-apply shaving cream for a 2nd or 3rd pass. I simply touch-up a couple of areas with my cartridge blade razor after using the Feather (which, by the way, is a beautiful razor though expensive).

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